The Garage - Purge Valve
Relocating the EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve!

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Last Updated: 12/4/2013
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EVAP Purge Valve Relocation

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The Emission Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid Valve (short: Purge Valve) is part of the emissions system -and designed to release the build up of fuel vapors from the charcoal canister back into the engine so it can be recycled (burnt).

My Dodge Durango 2003 SLT+ has it's purge valve located right between the battery tray and the inner fender which seems such a waste of the already cramped space under the hood in this area.

I needed to find a spot to mount two Mega fuse blocks for my car stereo system and my electric radiator fan as close to the battery as possible. I thought that the space currently occupied by the purge valve would be a perfect spot to mount them.

It was time to find a new spot for the purge valve and I found it at the inner fender beside the ANTI-LOCK Brakes Module.


What's involved to get this job done?
The removal of the purge valve and all connecting vapor lines and electrical wires. Fabricating a new bracket for the purge valve and mounting it to the fender. Extending the wires from the electrical connector and finishing the job by connecting the purge valve back to the system using new vacuum lines purchased from the local car parts store.

Cost: All I needed to purchase was vacuum tubing,
The entire cost for this project was approx. $10.00.

I also picked up a can of NEVR DULL polish and an assortment of sheet metal screws which I used on this project but didn't count towards the cost because these are items I like to have on hand and use on other projects too. The 6061 aluminum angle I made the bracket from was a left over material I had in my parts bin but had purchased at my local ACE Hardware store some time ago for a different project.

Installation (Relocation)
The OEM location of the purge valve is next to the battery. To get better access to all the tubing and wires, I began the project by removing the battery and proceeded to label all vacuum lines and their originating ports before removing them. Some of the lines are showed dry rot and seem to be on the end of their life.

I am sure it wouldn't take to long until the check engine light would have come on and the code reader indicated some evap error. Thus I am glad I started this project now as it will take care of this maintenance issue as well.

The purge valve is removed by disconnecting the plug.and pulling it up and off the OEM bracket.

Next, I fabricatied a new bracket from angle aluminum stock using my desktop mill but could have done it with a file and hacksaw just as easy. I just copied the purge valve section of the OEM bracket which is also part of the fuse box mount as close as possible. It took less then an hour to fabricate the new bracket from 6061 aluminum angle stock

Before starting the project.
Here is a pic of the new installed bracket.

After polishing the bracket with some NEVR DULL (my favorite aluminum polish) I mounted the bracket using sheet metal screws securely to the inner fender wall right beside the ANTI-LOCK Brakes Module. I then cleaned up the purge valve and applied a small dab of grease to the rubber part of the purge valve.

The purge valve was a perfect fit on it's new bracket. It was now also easier to remove, replace, or to maintain if this should become necessary.

The next step was re-routing all vacuum lines and protecting the lines with split wire loom were needed.

The OEM purge valve cable now not reaching the new location was cut, leaving about 3 inches from the connector. Then extended using 16 gauge wire of the same color and resoldered to the old connector.
The purge valve has a new home.
New vacuum lines and all wired up .

Finishing up:
Some cable ties help to secure any wireing left unattended. A bit of clean up and it was all ready for a quick test.
All OK, no engine checklight and everything is functioning great. The simple project was executed within one afternoon.


Verdict:


This Project was completed on 08-09-2012
Relocating the purge valve cleaned up the engine bay nicely. I now can utilize the space beside the battery more efficient for a bunch of large fuses which suppose to be close to the battery.

These fuses and fuse holders are for the audio system for which I have upgrades planned.




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