The Garage - Fan Delete
Swapping the mechanical for an electric Cooling Fan!

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Last Updated: 12/3/2013
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To regain some horsepower from the Magnum engine, I decided to replace the mechanical clutch fan and install an electric driven fan to the radiator. This mod is known as "Fan Delete" and done by many with various results.The proof is always in a real Dyno test and this showed a regain of 8-10 HP for the 5.9l Magnum. Considering the low price and how simple this mod is, it's a no-brainer!
I am sorry to say that at the time when I did the Fan Delete Mod, I did not take the usual amount of pictures but I feel that this mod belongs in the SnowDigger Garage none the less.

Fan Clutch Spanner Wrench
The only special tools required for this job is a Fan Clutch Spanner Wrench which looks, with two prongs on a fork like shape end piece, similar to a Pulley holder wrench and in addition having a large open end wrench to loosen the clutch nut helps too. Having these tools makes the job a lot easier.
Finding the right fan for the job!
I believe that the best fan for a Dodge Durango 2003 with the 5.9l is the unit found in a 91-95 Ford Taurus with the 3.8L engine.To get one, you may want to check at your local scrap yard as I did or browse ebay.

It is a 2 speed (high/low) fan which has a Siemens Motor. It moves approximately 4000 CFM of air on the high speed, though I have read claims of even higher output and easily keeps things very cool. The dimensions, including mounting tabs, are 22 7/8" wide, 18 7/8" tall, and approximately 4 7/8" deep but actually a bit less after the top mounting tab is trimmed off. The fan has 9 blades and is 16 1/2 inches in diameter. I made sure that my fan has the short pigtail for splicing it into my factory harness. Before installation I tested the fan then cleaned the fan and replaced the motor mounting bolts with new ones.

The best part of it is that this fan unit installs perfectly below the Dodge Durango 2003 Factory Shroud with the integrated windshield wiper reservoir and coolant overflow tank. It hides completely below and the factory look is undisturbed.

Electrical Setup & Planning
Wiring the fan unit was a bit tricky but not to complicated. I simply used 3 relais, two of the Bosch 75 amp Relay 0-332-002-150 and a standard 40A automotive relay (which came with my Fan Controller kit), it's a SPDT which means Single Pole Double Throw. SnowDigger Part Info

Electrical Color ID on the Taurus Fan Connectors:

Orange Low Speed
Blue High Speed
Black Ground/Chassis


I also purchased a Derale Performance Single Stage Fan Controller 16738 with a Push-in radiator fin probe for my setup as seen in the picture below from Summit Racing Equipment for 25 bucks plus shipping.

Quick Specs:
Fan Off Temperature (F): 170 degrees F
Fan On Temperature (F): 180 degrees F
Relay Included: Yes (40A SPDT)
Sending Unit Included: Yes
Sending Unit Style: Radiator probe
Thermal Switch Style: Non-adjustable fan control kit
Wiring Harness Included: Yes

Notes:
30/40 amp relay with air conditioning override circuit. Includes 30 amp fuse. Fan amperage is critical with this unit, most dual fans with large amperage draws will require the use of two controllers.

The operation of my setup was planned as follows:
(1) Fan will run on low speed at all times except when the thermostat probe switch is activated.
(2) Fan will switch from low to high speed automatically depending on the PCM which would normally turn the Dodge OEM auxiliary fan on or off.
(3) Installation of a safety switch within the cab allowing the fan to be turned off for water crossings to avoid the usual water spray into the engine compartment. Switch positions are: Off / Automatic.
To avoid accidentally deactivation of the fan, a switch with a safety cover will be used and furthermore I will install an electronically acoustic reminder which will beep every minute if the switch is in the FAN OFF position to avoid overheating if forgotten.
What's involved to get this job done?
The OEM shroud with the coolant overflow tank and windshield wiper fluid reservoir (after disconnecting the pumps and sensor for the wiper fluid) needs to be unbolted and put aside. The mechanical clutch fan needs to be un-installed. Then the electrical Taurus Fan unit installed and connected. The fan controller needs to be placed into the radiator. Two Bosch relais will find their way onto the Firewall and a third relay will be installed into the main fuse box. The override switch needs to be mounted into the cab and after wiring everything up, the OEM shroud will be re-installed.

Installation (mechanical)
I begin with unplugging the two windshield wiper fluid pumps and the reservoir sensor. Next is disconnecting the battery and the removal of the two bolts which hold the OEM shroud into position and then moving the shroud up and resting it on top of the engine.

I remove the small OEM AC fan unit, and unbolt the AC condenser radiator and carefully move it to the front to gain access for the install of the Taurus fan unit which I prepared with some door seals on the portions of the shroud which would otherwise don't seal up with the radiator. The door seal material I purchase at ACE Hardware for a few bucks and worked great for this purpose.

I then remove the mechanical clutch fan with my Fan Clutch Spanner Wrench and put it aside at an upright position. Clutch Fans should never be stored flat to the ground!

Now everything has been removed and put out of the way and the Taurus Fan Unit can be installed with 8 (eight) large 1" dia. metal washers under which I have put 4 (four) equal size flat rubber washers from the radiator outer side to protect the radiator fins when tightening against them. The rubber "washers" I have cut from a piece of 1/8" rubber mat I had laying around in the shop.

I then use four 0.250"x2.5" bolts which are pushed very carefully through the main radiator and secured with four nuts on the inside against the Taurus fan unit as seen here in the picture. It was definitely a good idea to test the fan before hand because the install looked a lot easier then it was. The access to some of the bolts was so restricted that I needed a second person (with small hands) to help, in my case my wife lend me a hand.

Here is a pic with the OEM shroud unbolted.

The Taurus fan unit is installed.

Installation (electrical)
The OEM system on my 2003 Durango is set up with an electrical auxiliary fan unit. This fan is controlled by an relay within the Power Distribution Center (PDC) or main fuse box as I like to call it.

The radiator relay is energized and thus the fan is running when the coolant temperature is above 176°F or the battery temperature sensor is above 10°F or the air conditioning is selected and the battery temperature sensor is above 106°F.
The fan stops when the coolant temperature drops below 180°F or the battery temperature sensor is below 16°F or when the air conditioning is selected and the coolant temperature is below 198°F, or the air conditioning is selected and the battery temperature is below 100°F.

Well, if this isn't confusing! Took me a while to wrap my head around this one. Why is this all important for the new Taurus fan setup? I need to know this because I am planning on engaging the Taurus fan into High Speed when the OEM auxiliary fan would normally engage but switch the Taurus Fan into Low Speed mode when the OEM system would normally disengage.

I identified with my multi-meter that the fat yellow wire within the big cable harness leading from the front of the main fuse box to the inside connects to the 87 tab of the OEM radiator relay. This wire runs normally to the auxiliary fan. I cut it, insulated the end which runs to the fan with shrink tubing and electrical tape and soldered to the other end a yellow cable extension as I am using that wire on my relay setup. This wire will have power once the OEM radiator relay would be energized.


Here is my wiring diagram which I made to use in my setup:




It took me about an hour to install the relay into the main fuse box and connecting all the wires. I managed the cables to be connected to the appropriate partners below the upper fuse box compartment for a clean look.

I then started the wiring to the fan for which I used some heavy gauge wire I had in the shop from a previous stereo install. They worked really great!I mounted the two Bosch relais to the firewall and ran the heavy gauge wires to the Taurus fan. Some electrical tape and wire loom makes for a clean install.

Soldering the pigtail to the Taurus fan unit was an easy job using quality solder and shrink tubing I always keep handy in my shop. I use some cable ties to keep everything neat and in it's place after wrapping it with wire loom.

I haven't done the in-cab switches just yet, as these will go into a new center console I am planning to build. Once this new console project is tackled, I will update the page to include the switches.
The 40 Amp relay mounted in the fuse box.


The 75 Amp relais from Bosch

Heavy duty cable for the fan power.


The pigtail connector is soldered in.

Verdict:
The conversion from the mechanical fan to the electrical went smooth and took me a Saturday to complete. I certainly can feel a small power gain as the throttle response has increased, but let's not forget my other reason to switch to an electrical fan which is that I have absolute control over it and there will be no more mud gluing to the underside of my hood or all over the engine when going for a deep water crossing.

This Project was completed on 09-12-2008



Update 06-23-2011
The Taurus fan died a few days ago. The motor has burned out and it popped a fuse, but everything is now back to normal after installing a replacement fan (same type and model). This one I purchased from ebay for 60 bucks. After 3 years I still like this mod!



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